Usher’s Bakehouse
Deva House, Cestrian Court, Lightfoot St, Hoole, Chester CH2 3AD
The BEST flat white in Chester. Definitely.
And the ‘small joy’ of receiving a real LETTER in a GOLD envelope, from Marianne of Heeled In.
If you arrive at Usher’s on a day when Chris is serving, you are in for treat. Chris learnt the art of the barista in Huddersfield, from a Italian from Rome who didn’t speak any English (so taught with expression and the clip-like slight of the hand). The craft learnt from that detailed observation is what you will taste in each cup. The flavour experience of coffee is MORE than just the beans (which are undoubtedly very good). This is the best coffee in Chester, and I’ve tried quite a few!
Today there was a jalapeno and cheddar sourdough loaf too, which is worth every penny. I feel like I’ve hit the jackpot if I stop in here on a day they’re on the shelf. And tomorrow there may well be their viral rhubarb tart on the counter … the slices are gone in an instant, so it is best if you order ahead.
And more from Usher's bakehouse here on Instagram
Usher's in Chester bakes bread for Elite Bistros - like the Sticky Walnut (Hoole), Hispi (Didsbury), and the White Horse (Churton). Their bakehouse in Chester is open everyday. It's not cheap - but their wares are so worth the trip.
Today I’m sheltering from the winds of Storm Chandra with a coffee and a delicious cherry frangipane slice, whilst reading a long hand-written letter that arrived in post in a GOLD envelope. My letter is from Marianne Mogendorff of ‘Heeled In’, and formally of Wolves Lane Flower Company (micro flower farm in north London) and of the Candoco Dance Company.
Marianne now single-handedly tends a walled garden in Monmouthshire, on the OldLands Estate. Once a month she sends a long letter through the post to her subscribers, with reflections and musing on her new life as the custodian of this garden at ‘Heeled in’ (you can subscribe in her ‘shop’). The letter offers an exquisite journey in your mind’s eyes of the life in the soil, behind the slightly crumbling romantic walls of something almost Secret Garden-like and the wandering old orchard with its quince, pears, cherries, walnuts and more. All that’s needed is a swing and speckled light from under a straw hat and you can smell the rose garden and taste the asparagus.
The letter from January can be read alongside these photographs on Instagram:
To find out more about ‘Heeled In’, blog, letters, wedding flowers, workshops, gardening leave and more, visit her website.
Here also is the link to the beautiful book, from her time at Wolves Lane Flower Company: How to Grow Flowers and more on the land that she rents is on the estate of Old Lands - agroecological farm
Marianne also grows Rhubarb. There's a bed on the diagram of the garden that was part of her January letter.
Mary Prior (Rhubarbaria: Recipes for Rhubarb) quotes John Gerard in his ‘The Generall Historie of Plantes’, (1597) as he tried to influence the British public to use rhubarb:
‘It purifieth the bloud and makes yong wenches look faire and cherry-like”.
She explains that rhubarb came first to Europe in classical times as a dried root with medicinal qualities, but it wasn't until the 18th century that this fruit (or vegetable) was accepted at English tables, developing a reputation as a ‘quintessentially British’ flavour.
Rhubarb is a perennial plant. It is very easy to grow, just needs a decent patch of the garden as it may spread up to a metre. I think it’s very attractive, so it could go almost anywhere in the garden. I have one plant in my garden ‘Timperley Early (March to May) but there are other varieties that will begin growing later and keep going until August. Rhubarb can be ‘forced’ early, under a beautiful rhubarb cloche (or a bucket) or perhaps as in the Yorkshire ‘Rhubarb triangle’, in a dark shed, harvested by candle light. When forced it is delicate and sweet:
Link for the BBC story of candlelit harvested forced rhubarb of the Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle
Apparently it is best to harvest rhubarb stalks by pull and twist, rather than cutting, as it invigorates the root to produce more stems. And if you force it one year, ideally you should leave it to recover the next. It is very nitrogen hungry plant and requires to be well fertilised with plenty of manure.
It looks like something prehistoric as it emerges in the spring. I love it.
The leaf stalks and flowers are the only edible parts of the plant. The leaves are poisonous, containing high levels of oxalic acid, which can affect calcium metabolism if eaten in huge quantities. The almost open flowers of the rhubarb plant are considered a delicacy in the Far East and are lightly fried (apparently easily overcooked). The boy and I tried our rhubarb’s small flower stir-fried. It was quite pleasant; not overly sour with a slightly lemony tang. However, if you do let the plant flower it will use its energy to create seeds and the plant will produce fewer stems. The tiny individual flowers that make up the rhubarb flower head do not contain any oxalic acid, but the flower stem does. The stem is a branching structure that goes right inside the head so it’s impossible to get it all out, but if you just cut off the most accessible bits, the small leaves and the papery bract which surrounds the flower head, I have read that you’ll have got rid of most of it. It’s a bit of a faff, but worth trying for the fun of tasting it.
My Garden
I was inspired to go out into my own garden when I got home from Usher’s. It’s easy to miss the budding shoots in the damp and chill. And of course it was worth the chill for the small joys.
I found buds on the cherry and apricot, flower buds on the bay, fresh leaves of the Babington’s leek and a fabulous old bulb head and hazel catkins (which apparently you can stir-fry - which I might just try, as the squirrels always get the nuts and I think it’s my turn to eat from the hedge). And there were the deep peppery- greens of landcress (that will be in my egg sandwich very soon, between thick slices of Usher’s jalapeño and cheddar sourdough).
PS. I'll let you know what the rhubarb tart tastes like. I just decided I may well order one after writing this post and watching the video a few times, besides which I’ve my friend Kathleen coming to stay!
Enjoy eating from the hedge x
I hope the rhubarb tart tasted as good as it looks. And thank you for the Heeled In update; I miss their Wolves Lane flower garden.